Cherbourg and Brest: The Secret Swans

In Cherbourg and Brest, you’re much more likely to be enjoying that cuisine alongside actual French people instead of tourists. The château belongs to — and is still partly occupied by — the French Navy, making it the oldest castle in the world that’s still in military use. I grew up on England’s south coast and family vacations often involved a ferry crossing to France. Cherbourg was one of the ports we arrived into, and that’s all I ever really knew about the city: an unattractive ferry port where my parents loaded up on great-value wine before hurrying home. Today’s shore excursions in Cherbourg reflect a similar attitude, with guests mostly rushing through town on Mont Saint-Michel or D-Day beach tours.  In Brest, too, cruise passengers are encouraged to shun the city for more attractive destinations. But there’s a most excellent alternative to flinging yourself on these far-flung excursions: remaining in Cherbourg and Brest. Local Flavor You’re in France. No matter where in France, there will be somewhere selling good coffee and even better baked goods. Yes, even the country’s questionably attractive northern ports contain boulangeries where the waft of fresh croissants reminds you that you’re somewhere that takes cuisine very seriously. Except that, in Cherbourg and Brest, you’re much more likely to be enjoying that cuisine alongside actual French people instead of tourists. A 15-minute walk from where your ship docks is Cherbourg’s downtown, a warren of narrow streets edged by old stone buildings. Cherbourg receives, on average, over 170 days of rain or snow annually and, thanks to the famous 1963 movie Les Parapluies de Cherbourg (The Umbrellas of Cherbourg), has a reputation as a particularly soggy part of France. Not helping this reputation is the fact that a renowned umbrella manufacturer with the same name as the movie is located here. Tour their factory or find one of their outlets on the pedestrianized Rue des Portes for a unique — and useful — souvenir.  Just minutes away, on Rue Maréchal Foch, Boulangerie Rivey is the place to find something sumptuously sweet while rubbing shoulders with discerning locals. You’ll probably need to speak some French here, so repeat after me: “Un croissant, s’il vous plait” (“Deux” if you’re feeling hungry). OK, this isn’t the most picturesque street, but just over the road is the 1882 Théâtre à l’Italienne. The theater’s Beaux-Arts facade is sure to impress and rivals even the most lavish buildings of Paris.  Loop back towards your ship and visit the Cité de la Mer Museum beside the cruise terminal. Exhibits include an immersive tour of oceanic sounds, France’s first nuclear submarine, and a collection of objects from Titanic, which sailed from here on that first and fateful journey. History is also evident as you sail away: Construction of Cherbourg’s harbor wall began in 1783 and continued under Napoleon as part of his unfinished preparations to invade England.  Secret Grandeur Brest has a more obvious charm as you approach from the sea: its impressively large château. The grandeur continues as soon as your free shuttle deposits you beside Place de la Liberté (Liberty Square). You can’t miss the large Brutalist town hall fronted by fountains. Turn around and head down Rue de Siam. This wide street is .… By Olly Beckett EXCERPT ONLY. CLICK TO READ THE FULL ARTICLE. This is an excerpt from the latest issue of Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine. To continue reading, click above for a digital or print subscription.
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